Soho Cooking - Alastair Little varenummer 40248
In 1975 my cooking career was launched at the Old Compton Wine Bar on the street of that name. Launched is perhaps the wrong word - kick-started more like, in that the chef left and I volunteered to have a go.
The very next day I was cooking 80 lunches, armed with a copy of Elizabeth David's French Provincial Cooking and a self-confidence that can only be viewed as foolhardy.
Most of the cooking there was done on a gas char-grill, principally steaks, pork chops and lamb cutlets.
The last of these was the salient point in my first-ever review.
A small section in the Times diary made several pleasant comments about the wines and the quality of the bread and cheeses, but observed that "the only cooking we noticed was by a young man, who was preparing lamb chops by the simple expedient of setting fire to them on the grill. I have refined my technique a little since then and they remain one of my favourites...
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